The Kungsleden or King's Trail stretches south from Abisko for about 400km, with well maintained hostels located every 15 to 20km. We planned to hike 75km of the northern trail over 4 days and although the hostels provided comfortable beds, cooking facilities and occasionally saunas, showers weren't part of the deal.
Hiking in the far north during summer is an amazing experience because it is literally light 24 hours a day. Even a month after the solstice, the sun dipped below the mountains only briefly, replacing night with a surreal pink twilight.
We made the most of the midnight sun, setting out at 2pm on our first day. Flat terrain, great weather and high spirits saw us reach the first hut quickly and I managed to convince (or perhaps trick) everyone into continuing onto the second, which was nestled at the foot of the mountains. We made it there just after midnight, having traversed 37km of picturesque countryside.
Although I was still feeling olympic, the rest of my team were suffering. Chris was complaining about blisters and devastated that the hostels only sold light beer. Lauren, having brought enough fresh fruit and vegetables to last several months, was struggling under the weight and although Alana never complained, her otherwise excellent hiking boots had been indirectly responsible for a large blister on her heel.
We decided we could afford the luxury of a rest day and spent it lazing around the hostel. In the evening Chris, Alana and I headed to the sauna and attempted the plunge - from 70 degree sauna to 5 degree lake. This plan was partially foiled by the steep, slippery 20m path to the lake which ensured we were already quite cold by the time we got there. At least it was like a bath.
The next 8km of trail were the most scenic of our trip, winding through a valley between steep mountains, past glaciers and pockets of snow (Wes 1 : Alana 0). We stopped for lunch at a waterfall and watched as the weather turned from overcast to rainy. The final 10km were slow going, along a boggy, bug infested riverbed in the pouring rain and even I was glad when we finally reached shelter.
We had arranged to meet up with a local speedboat driver who offered a ferry service to the nearby town of Nikkaluokta, shortening our hike by 12km. Unfortunately we'd arranged to meet by 1230 at a point 20km from our hostel, further along the boggy, bug infested riverbed. We awoke at 0530 and noted with excitement that it had rained all night and didn't look like stopping anytime soon. After a quick breakfast and a few prayers to the rain gods, we began the long trudge. Two days of rain had turned the vegetated sections of the trail into mush, while the rocky parts were more like small rivers. Things got a little hairy on a couple of occasions as we waded across small streams that had been turned into raging rivers by the torrential rains.
The rain eased during the mid morning which allowed us to increase speed and arrive at the meeting place right on time, just as even heavier storm clouds rolled back in. Dripping wet, we boarded the speedboat for the coldest 40 minutes of my life. Frigid winds left Chris and I huddled together in the middle of the boat, while the girls were fairly sheltered at the front. I was still shivering 15 minutes later and it took about 30 minutes in the bathroom with warm water and a hand drier to thaw me out completely.
At this point we discovered our bus had already left so we split into pairs and hitchhiked to Kiruna. Alana and I were picked up by a elderly Swedish couple who took us right to the centre of town while Chris and Lauren independently found their way to the "only car rental company in town," without too much trouble. We picked up our tiny rental car (Toyota Aygo) and drove back north to Abisko for hot showers and victory celebrations. Not the most enjoyable hike ever, but at least it was memorable!
Hiking in the far north during summer is an amazing experience because it is literally light 24 hours a day. Even a month after the solstice, the sun dipped below the mountains only briefly, replacing night with a surreal pink twilight.
We made the most of the midnight sun, setting out at 2pm on our first day. Flat terrain, great weather and high spirits saw us reach the first hut quickly and I managed to convince (or perhaps trick) everyone into continuing onto the second, which was nestled at the foot of the mountains. We made it there just after midnight, having traversed 37km of picturesque countryside.
Although I was still feeling olympic, the rest of my team were suffering. Chris was complaining about blisters and devastated that the hostels only sold light beer. Lauren, having brought enough fresh fruit and vegetables to last several months, was struggling under the weight and although Alana never complained, her otherwise excellent hiking boots had been indirectly responsible for a large blister on her heel.
We decided we could afford the luxury of a rest day and spent it lazing around the hostel. In the evening Chris, Alana and I headed to the sauna and attempted the plunge - from 70 degree sauna to 5 degree lake. This plan was partially foiled by the steep, slippery 20m path to the lake which ensured we were already quite cold by the time we got there. At least it was like a bath.
The next 8km of trail were the most scenic of our trip, winding through a valley between steep mountains, past glaciers and pockets of snow (Wes 1 : Alana 0). We stopped for lunch at a waterfall and watched as the weather turned from overcast to rainy. The final 10km were slow going, along a boggy, bug infested riverbed in the pouring rain and even I was glad when we finally reached shelter.
We had arranged to meet up with a local speedboat driver who offered a ferry service to the nearby town of Nikkaluokta, shortening our hike by 12km. Unfortunately we'd arranged to meet by 1230 at a point 20km from our hostel, further along the boggy, bug infested riverbed. We awoke at 0530 and noted with excitement that it had rained all night and didn't look like stopping anytime soon. After a quick breakfast and a few prayers to the rain gods, we began the long trudge. Two days of rain had turned the vegetated sections of the trail into mush, while the rocky parts were more like small rivers. Things got a little hairy on a couple of occasions as we waded across small streams that had been turned into raging rivers by the torrential rains.
The rain eased during the mid morning which allowed us to increase speed and arrive at the meeting place right on time, just as even heavier storm clouds rolled back in. Dripping wet, we boarded the speedboat for the coldest 40 minutes of my life. Frigid winds left Chris and I huddled together in the middle of the boat, while the girls were fairly sheltered at the front. I was still shivering 15 minutes later and it took about 30 minutes in the bathroom with warm water and a hand drier to thaw me out completely.
At this point we discovered our bus had already left so we split into pairs and hitchhiked to Kiruna. Alana and I were picked up by a elderly Swedish couple who took us right to the centre of town while Chris and Lauren independently found their way to the "only car rental company in town," without too much trouble. We picked up our tiny rental car (Toyota Aygo) and drove back north to Abisko for hot showers and victory celebrations. Not the most enjoyable hike ever, but at least it was memorable!
3 comments:
It wasn't so much the hiking boots as the mis-application of a campeed (blister patch) which rendered(?) my heel so haggard. Just want to make that clear. My hiking boots are AWSOME! :)
Those photos are amazing - looks like you hit the jackpot in terms of scenic landscapes.
As for the photo of that blister, that didn't look so nice. How could anyone manage 37ks with that?
Impressive hikes!
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